Circular Storage Unit

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Faced with the task of trying to subdivide a large room into smaller and more intimate spaces, Hildi came up with the idea of placing a circular, portable storage unit in the center of the room. Her original plan was to build four separate quarter sections, each on casters, that would serve as a centerpiece to the room. When she described her plan to Ty, he responded that it sounded like "a giant Lazy Susan storage unit."

Shopping List
3/4-inch MDF
2-inch drywall screws
wood (yellow) glue
wood putty
sandpaper
tack cloth
primer
paint
casters
bolts and nuts for casters

Material Choices

The storage unit was constructed out of medium density fiberboard (MDF), which regular viewers of Trading Spaces will recognize as a widely used material on the show. MDF has been used for years by furniture builders and cabinetmakers, and it is now becoming accessible to homeowners and do-it-yourselfers. MDF is often confused with particleboard, but the two products are used quite differently. Particleboard is most often used as a substrate for such surface materials as plastic laminate and wood veneer. MDF, on the other hand, can itself be used as a surface material. When cut with a saw or shaped with a router, it leaves a smooth, clean edge. And, unlike particleboard, it looks great painted and holds fasteners securely.

Be aware, however, that MDF is heavy. A single 3/4-inch thick sheet of 4x8 MDF weighs nearly 100 pounds. It also creates a lot of dust when being cut or routed. So, when using MDF, have a partner on hand to help lift full sheets, and be sure to wear eye protection and a tight-fitting dust protector when cutting or shaping it.

If you have trouble finding MDF, you could build the same unit using birch veneer plywood, which also looks good painted. For a natural wood look, use oak or maple veneer hardwood.

Design Options

The modular design of this unit makes it adaptable to any number of situations. Hildi's original plan was for a four-piece unit, with each one oriented toward a different corner. Time constraints, however, resulted in a finished unit that included only three sections. The effect of subdividing the room was not lost by this compromise, but it was altered a bit, and perhaps even improved.

Using the design of three or four quarter sections, this unit can sit in the center of a room and effectively break up the monotony of a large, open space. But the same approach can be used in smaller rooms. You could build just two sections and place them against a wall, or even a single section for a corner.

If you like the idea of a portable storage unit, install casters on the bottoms of each section. That way you can slide the contents of the unit to where they are needed, then easily return them to home base when you are done. Portability also makes cleaning under and around the unit that much easier.

Additional design options include adjusting the size and color to suit your needs. The height and footprint of the unit can (and should) be decided on a case-by-case basis. If you build with MDF, as Ty did on the TV project, painting will be easy. Paint the entire unit a single color, or each section a different color.

Plan Ahead

Draw your plans on paper before buying any materials. With detailed plans that account for every piece in the unit you want to build, you will be able to know exactly how much material to buy.

Working in the Round

One of the keys to creating a neat looking unit is to lay out and cut the circular shelves as accurately as possible. The ideal tool for drawing a perfect circle would be a compass, but it is doubtful that you will have one capable of drawing such a large radius. The simple solution to this problem is to make your own tool for the job. There are two quick and easy ways to do this. The first is to use a piece of string with loops tied in each end. Attach one loop to a tack or small nail in the center of the circle, then slip a pencil through the other end. Hold the pencil straight up and, with the string taut, draw your circle. You can gain a bit more accuracy by using a piece of wood (a 1x4, or even a yardstick, will do) instead of the string. Drive a small nail through one end, then slip the pencil through a drilled hole on the other. Set the point of the nail at the center, then pivot the board around as the pencil draws a perfect circle.

You may find it quicker to draw full circles on the MDF, then divide and cut it into quarters. Or you may want to cut out one perfect section and use it as a template to lay out the others. Note, however, that you will need two different sizes of pie-shaped sections. The top and bottom shelves, which overlap the sides, will each be exact quarters from the circle. The shelves in between, however, will not fit perfectly, as Ty discovered on the show. Instead, they need to be trimmed along each straight edge by 3/4 inch. In Ty's case, a quick pass on the table saw reduced the shelves to perfect size.

Cutting MDF

MDF can be cut with a circular saw or on a table saw. It is best to use sharp, carbide-tipped blades for the job. To cut the rounded edges, however, you will need a jigsaw (use a sharp, fine-tooth blade). Because it generates so much dust, it is best to cut the material outside or in a garage or workshop. If you must cut it inside the house, do so behind closed doors and be prepared to vacuum the powdery remains from all surfaces in the room. If necessary, you can smooth any rough edges with sandpaper.

When cutting the sides for each section, note that while they should be exactly the same height, one side should be 3/4-inch wider to allow it to overlap in the corner.

Fastening the Pieces

Another advantage of MDF is how easily pieces can be joined together. Regular 2-inch drywall screws should be sufficient to hold moderate weight loads. Using wood glue as well as screws will be even stronger, while biscuits and glue will produce the strongest joint (but you will need a biscuit joiner to cut the slots for the biscuits). When using screws, first drill a pilot hole for the shaft and a countersink hole for the head.

Before attaching any fasteners, however, dry fit the pieces of each section together to make sure everything has been cut to size. Attach the sides to each other first, then add the shelves. Fastening shelves will be easier if you set them on two temporary spacers to hold them level while you drive the screws. If you plan to set any heavy objects on the shelves, you should plan to add additional support pieces in the middle of the lower shelves, as Ty did in the unit he built.

Finishing MDF

If you used glue, clean off any excess with a rag before it dries, or scrape it off after it hardens. Fill the countersunk screw holes with wood putty. Sand any rough edges, and remove dust from the surface with a tack cloth. Apply an oil- or shellac-based primer to the unit. When dry, sand the surface lightly. For best results, apply another coat of primer to at least the edges of the unit. Sand again, then apply two coats of oil-based or latex paint.

Let it Roll

If you want to add casters, plan to attach at least three to the bottoms of each section. For larger units, and especially for units that will be holding quite a bit of weight, you may want to add a fourth caster. Casters can be fastened to the bottom shelves with bolts and nuts. Attach them as close as possible to the edge so that they are positioned under the weight-bearing sides.