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Our step-by-step instructions explain how to build the freestanding room divider pictured above.
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Freestanding Room Divider (cont'd)
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Attaching the MDF (cont'd)

Be aware, however, that MDF is heavy. A single 3/4-inch thick sheet of 4x8 MDF weighs nearly 100 pounds. It also creates a lot of dust when being cut or routed. So, when using MDF, have a partner on hand to help lift full sheets, and be sure to wear eye protection and a tight-fitting dust protector when cutting it. Cut the material outside or in a garage, using either a circular saw or a table saw. It is best to use sharp, carbide-tipped blades for the job. Attach 3/4-inch MDF with 2 1/2-inch (8d) finish nails driven into studs and plates. Cover the ends and the tops of the walls with strips of MDF.

Finishing the Wall

With a nail set, countersink the nail heads and fill the holes with wood putty. Use sandpaper to smooth any rough edges. Spread drop cloths on the floor, and then prime and paint the wall.

Cut sections of baseboard to cover the bottom of the entire wall. Using baseboard that is the same style, size, and color will help make your new wall seem more integrated with the rest of the room. You might want to prime and paint the baseboard before installing it. Once installed, countersink the finish nails and fill the holes with wood putty. When dry, sand the putty and then add a little touch-up primer and paint.

Light it Up

In the Scottsdale bedroom, Doug added floor lamps on each side of the couch and wall sconces on each side of the bed. What he did not explain in the show is how those new lights were powered. If you watched very closely, however, you might have been able to catch a glimpse of an extension cord running somewhat inelegantly across the floor to the new room divider. You could do the same, as long as you planned to cover the cord somehow. Another option would be to talk with an electrician about adding a floor-mounted receptacle near the new wall that could supply all the power you need.


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Picture: Banyan Productions/DCI |

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