There's plenty of vinous life in Europe outside the major wine-producing countries, some of it inspiring, some of it … err, challenging.

What do the countries of central and southern Europe have to offer beyond Bulgarian Cabernet Sauvignon, Laski 'Riesling,' Bull's Blood and Retsina? Plenty. These are places with a lengthy wine heritage, and some of what is being made today is seriously good.

The potential for making great wine in several non-mainstream European countries is vast. But while some, such as Austria, Greece and Hungary, are making the most of this, others are floundering.

Modern Greek wine is far-removed from dodgy Retsina. Familiar grapes exist, but there are also impressive local varieties, with highlights being the pine- and citrus-scented Assyrtiko and the red duo of the spicy, earthy Xynomavro, used for wines from Naoussa, and the plummy Agiorgitiko, the grape behind Nemea. Austria's trump-card is Grüner Veltliner, a peppery, grapefruity grape used for whites that vary from crisp and light to serious, powerful and long-lived.

Riesling also excels, and Sauvignon from Styria in the south can be excellent. For reds, look for earthy Blaufränkisch, tangy Zweigelt and Pinot-Noir-look-alike St Laurent. Neighboring Hungary offers the same grapes, but also has the legendary sweet wine Tokaji, now revitalized after stagnating under communist rule. As for other former Eastern Bloc countries, such as Bulgaria, Romania, Croatia, Slovenia, Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Moldova, decent wines have emerged from such places (especially Slovenia), but a lack of consistency explains their absence from shop shelves. Finally, don’t forget England – the sparkling wines in particular can be terrific.

Fact
Tokaji wines are so renowned in Hungary that they are mentioned in the national anthem.